Queenstown was the launch point for the Routeburn track, a 3-day, 2-night classic New Zealand hike through the mountains. We camped at routeburn flats the first night which was basically a gorgeous field surrounded by mountains under a sky full of stars. The second day was a full day of hiking over the Harris Saddle. From there some serious snow-covered peaks unfolded as we hiked above the tree line toward the Mackenzie campsite. The final day we descended slowly across the mountains seeing waterfalls and the river below. Excellent trek.
The next major stop was Milford Sound. Which, by the way, is not actually a "sound" but a "fiord." It is just like the brochure, pituresque. We took a boat ride out to the ocean's edge for some stunning views and stayed in Milford one night to get the opportunity to kayak the following day. The mountains are massive and steep, plunging right into the water. And there are 2 huge waterfalls over 100m high.
After Milford we geared up for our second tramp, the Humpridge track. We got dropped off in a tiny town called Tuatapere. I learned shorly after we arrived that it was the sausage capital of the South Island (suspicious, Bill). The people of Tuatapere formed a trust to create the Humpridge track and bring some economic growth to the area. This is only its second season in operation. Trampers must use the huts which are brand new, no camping was allowed. The trail was very rigorous, about 18km per day, very steep and loaded with mud. At the end of our first day we reached Otaka hut at the top of a "wee peak" (a local said) and were rewarded with a phenomenal panoramic view including mountains, surf, and a puffy cloud sunset. Good thing we took it all in because the next day we awoke in a cloud, literally; six degrees celsius, 25km winds, and a thick mist. The hut warden promised we wouldn't get blown off the ridge so we proceeded across and down to the Port Craig hut, passing over some historic viaducts and an occasional bridge (suspension type, dad). From there we walked across railroad bed, through beech forest and along the beach back to the trail head. Nothing but Stewart Island between us and Antarctica.
Our final stretch included a Rugby game in Dunedin and a spirited game of "tractor" on the busride to Christchurch. (ie...spy a tractor, call out "tractor, blue!!" at the top of your lungs and get a point, wild). We stayed with some friends Ivan and Jennie and their kids for 2 homey nights. Reviewing the tour of their country we realize there is so much more to see....will definitely need to go back to New Zealand.
We began with a 4-day, 3 night sea-kayaking/camping trip in the Abel Tasman National Park: long sandy beaches, a visit to the Tonga Island Seal Colony where a couple of the pups swam out to check us out...we were able to just sit there, floating 10 meters off of the rocks & watch for an hour. We paddled into a lagoon at high tide later in the trip & saw two sting rays at close range, swimming below our boat in 3 meters of crystal clear water; a fantastic trip. Accommodations were at Old Macdonald's Farm (yes a farm) where we were scoped out by both large cattle and a lonely looking llama; fortunately, from their own side of the fence.
We traveled the West Coast from there which, again, has some of the most amazing scenery, sunset over long beaches w/ the surf rolling in, crashing around large rocks & outcroppings from the shore.
A little white water rafing in the Buller Gorge, including a hop off a nine-meter cliff into the river: good stuff. Most amazing was yesterday's hiking/climbing on the Franz Josef Glacier, an 11 kilometer glacier, one of the only in the world that reaches down to the rainforest climes from which we accessed it. We took a full day, hiking in ice boots w/ metal spikes on the soles & ice axes, to the second ice fall, which was like very slow moving water...large wave-like peaks, with 25-50 foot cravasses in between. We were able to hike over, through & around, while our guide chopped out steps over the difficult inclines and declines. We found a couple of ice caves to adventure through, one of which was basically a vertical tube with thick, blue-ice walls.
We are headed out for some of New Zealand's finest "tramping" in Fiordland, expecting to tackle two 3-day tramps in the next week and a half, camping along the way. Should be amazing.
We arrived today in Queenstown, the birthplace of "extreme" sports. Tune in next time to see how "extreme" extreme-goo can get...
March 22, 2003 extreme mini-update:
AND NOW...THE EXTREMENESS REVEALED:
THE NEVIS HIGHWIRE BUNGY JUMP!!!!! YES, 134 METERS (THAT'S 440 FEET FOR YOU YANKS) OF ADRENALINE (HOLY SHITE) BUNGY...CHECK THIS LINK.
Check out the pics page...Enjoy.